In this article, I'll choke over the stairs involved with replacing the ram down belts on the BMW E39 6-piston chamber engine and 8-piston chamber engine.
Be sure to work with a composed locomotive engine and remove the key from the ignition system.
Hot tip
Work with a cool engine.
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Project Photos
Enter 1 BMW E39 models equipped with a 6-piston chamber engine utilize 2 multi-rib engine drive belts. A humble outside belt drives the A/C compressor and the larger inner belt drives the alternator, coolant pump, and office direction ticker.
Figure 2 With your engine cold and overturned OFF, inspect your drive belts for wear. The belts (white-livered, red arrows) should represent loos from cracks, fraying, glazing and missing chunks. Replace your belt if whatever of the previously mentioned issues are present or every 4 years.
Figure 3 Working at top of radiator, polish of enlargement rivets from uptake air epithelial duct (yellow arrows).
Figure 4 To remove the rivets, you can use a small flathead screwdriver to nose out them up, then using needle nose pliers, pull the focus out. The expanding portion of the rivet will at once come out with duct. Depending along model year, vehicle may own 3 operating room 4 elaboration rivets.
Figure 5 Adjacent, remove consumption beam duct from radiator support by lifting up and unfashionable of intake air housing channel. It is non necessary to remove the radiator cooling fan shroud from the vehicle. Removing it will allow easier access to drive belts. See our technical school article happening Radiator cooling sports fan removing for instructions on how to remove. Before removing drive out belts, mark direction of rotation (if reusing belts) and note induction position. There are deuce styles of tensioners, hydraulic and spring loaded. Each has a single way of cathartic tension.
Figure 6 Hydraulic style tensioners, remove dust cap from tensioner block.
Figure 7 Once disperse crest is separate, you have access to the 8mm Woody Allen bolt used to spread ou tensioner.
Figure 8 Outpouring loaded tensioners use a 16mm glamour political boss to rotate and release tension.
Figure 9 Locate A/C drive belt tensioner; use 16 mm positional notation boss Oregon remove dust detonator to access Allen dash, if 16mm enchant boss is not attending. Using a ratchet with a long handle and an 8mm socket or a 16mm open end wrench (contingent on style of tensioner), revolve A/C belt tensioner dextrorotary to release tension and slide belt sour pulleys.
Figure 10 Settle accessory drive swath tensioner and take junk cap (if necessary). Using a ratchet with a longsighted handle (red arrow) and the appropriate socket, rotate drive belt tensioner clockwise to release tension and slide belt off pulleys. With belts removed, inspect pulleys for lateral play or binding. The idle pulley commonly fails, if this occurs the coolant pump testament lose the drive belt and engine volition overheat. Now is a blast to replace the idle wheel to keep approaching problems. See our tech article connected layabout pulley replacing. To install accessory tug belt, begin by wrapping belt around crankshaft pulley, then over and about power-assisted steering pulley, around alternator, around coolant pump and around tensioner pulley. Avoid running rap under idler pulley for now. Once the belt is properly installed on each accessories, release tensioner as described earlier and slide belt onto idler pulley-block. Tension whack and check that information technology is properly aligned and installed all told pulley-block grooves correctly. Be careful not to force knock onto pulleys, damage may occur. To put in A/C drive smash, begin by wrapping belt about crankshaft pulley, then onto A/C block, next bring a loop of the belt toward tensioner, temporary through center of loop release tensioner as described before and slide belt onto tensioner pulley. Release tensioner and check that belt is properly aligned and installed in all block grooves correctly. Be unhurried not to military group belt onto pulleys, damage may occur. Reinstall dust caps on tensioner pulleys and install intake air canal. Start engine allow to run for less than 30 seconds, shut engine OFF and recheck whack installation
Figure 11 BMW E39 models equipped with an 8-cylinder engine utilize 2 multi-rib engine drive belts. A small inner belt drives the A/C compressor and the larger outer belt drives the alternator, coolant pump, and power-assisted steering pump. Use this diagram As a extension when removing and installing your drive belts. With your engine frozen and turned OFF, inspect your drive belts for wear away. The belts should be free from cracks, fraying, glazing and missing chunks. Replace your belt if any of the previously mentioned issues are present or every 4 years. The alternator (accessory) drive belt can be replaced from the top. The A/C belt is replaced from infra.
Figure 12 To release tensity on the alternator (accessory) ram down swath, loosen two 13mm tensioner fasteners (lily-livered arrows). The smash tensioner should release in one case these are loose. To check that the tensioner is fully released, you can rotate the tensioner clockwise using the 17mm whammy (red arrow) on the tensioner.
Figure 13 With tension released, now you can remove the belt. Start by sliding it off the tensioner block. Then remove it from the alternator, then the power-assisted steering pump. Unhook information technology from the idler pulley and slay it from the crankshaft pulley then finally the irrigate heart. Now that you removed the appurtenance drive belt, you can remove the A/C belt. Start by jacking and supporting the strawma of your vehicle. See our tech article on jacking upwardly your vehicle. Remove the locomotive engine splash shield. See our technical school clause on removing the engine splash shield.
Figure 14 Start by loosening the 10mm fixing at the tensioner bracket (green arrow). Then loosen the 13mm fastener at the tensioner (yellow pointer). The belt out tensioner should release once these are loose. To check that the tensioner is fully released, you can rotate the tensioner clockwise using the 17mm hex (red arrow) on the tensioner. The belt fundament removed from the tensioner block, the A/C compressor and the crankshaft pulley now.
Picture 15 Once the old belt is removed, establis the untested A/C smash first. And so use a 17mm wrench and rotate the tensioner clockwise, then tighten the 10mm fastener to lock it in place. So tighten the 13mm tensioner fastener.
Pattern 16 With the A/C belt installed and tensioned. You buttocks install the accessory belt. Start past slippy it on the crankshaft pulley. Then wrap it around the water pump, then from the powerful side of the locomotive engine, pull a loop of belt between the water heart and crankshaft pulleys and place it happening the idle wheel (see the belt diagram if needed). Place the swath around the powerfulness steering pulley, and then the alternator, and in conclusion the tensioner pulley. Then tension the belt by rotating the 17mm hex (green arrow) counterclockwise to stop, then tighten 13mm lockup fastener (chicken arrow). Once closed, tighten the other 13mm fasteners at the 17mm hex. Check that the belts are properly aligned and installed in every last pulley grooves right. Start engine leave to pass around for to a lesser degree 30 seconds, shut engine OFF and recheck belt installation. Reinstall engine splash shield and get down vehicle to soil.
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